Athens--Cruise--Spain 2022

Home! Only problem was overly stringent security in Madrid took away a small pair of scissors and some pretty rocks Henry had collected. I guess they were afraid he might bash somebody with the rocks, and those scissors were in rough enough shape I don't know what they imagined I might do with them. Oh well.  Anyway, fabulous trip but we're glad to be home and this is the last blog entry for this trip.

Spent the morning visiting a ceramics museum in a neighborhood formerly known for its ceramics factory. The skill is amazing, and thanks to the museum, we started paying more attention to the tiles used for signs.  Ice cream for lunch, then train to Madrid in anticipation of flight home tomorrow. It's been a wonderful adventure, but we're ready to be home. Too bad we can't just click our heels three times and be there, skipping the flying thing.

Morning visit to Casa Palacio Condesa de Lebrija. The Roman mosaics were, indeed, stunning as was the building itself. I thought it interesting that one room was decorated with stars of David. According to the guide, this was an acknowledgement of Jewish ancestry. Apparently the Countesshad ancestors who had chosen to convert rather than leave in 1492 and was proud of it. I wasn't able to get s picture of that, but here's one of the mosaics. Then lunch, a nice still along the river since the weather was gorgeous and home for a nap. Ended the day with a yummy dinner that included a very nice spinach salad and Moroccan pastillas (a ground meat pie kind of thing in a pastry).

Day trip to Córdoba today. Started with a couple hour walking tour, getting a nice overview of the city and it's history: Romans, Muslims, Visigoths, Jews, and if course, Catholics. Got in a visit to a synogogue (hidden when theJews were expelled and thought they'd be back, found when one of the walls hiding there Hebrew inscriptions feel down). Also to the archeological museum, with amazing Roman ruins before lunch. Then tour of the main site of Cordoba, the mosque/Cathedral. Interesting tidbit: you can expand your house narrowing the street, but there must be room for a donkey. The flower pot thing got started when someone got creative about covering some holes in the wall.

Did Rick Steves audio walking tour this morning since it only overlapped a little with the tour yesterday. Interesting. The ugly history is so apparent with churches built on top of mosques (you can still see it in the architecture) and synogogues (no traces left--though the church is gone, too, with only an iron cross remaining in an otherwise nice plaza).  Then to the Seville mushroom, and the market underneath it. Flamenco show this evening. It was also excellent, and quite different from the one in Granada.

I think we've seen enough monuments to power and money to last a while, even if they are spectacular. Started with a very nice walking tour of old Seville. The guide was terrific (and a flamenco dancer when not tour guiding). Between royalty and the Catholic Church... Anyway, one difference from other cities we've been visiting is that, even though not on the coast, Sevilla was a huge trading center thanks to the river leading directly to the Atlantic. It's also interesting that the tobacco factory stopped hiring men and hired gypsy women (in the 1600's?) for15% of what they paid the men plus the women did a better job. The factory building is now part of the University of Granada. My overdose on power and money is probably enhanced by the time spent in the Alcazar--truly spectacular, but just too much!

Time in the morning to visit two ceramics factories specializing in traditional Granada tiles and pottery plus two. Carméns (special houses with gardens and views of the Alhambra). Back to the hotel in time to check out and catch our train to Sevilla. Got settled in our hotel (a modern one this time, so complete contrast to the previous one. Less interesting, but more comfortable room). Then for some tapas (gazpacho is completely pureed here, and sold by the glass or pitcher) and a nice introductory walk around.

Spent so long in there Cathedral, we had to have an ice cream and go home for a nap. Then late, and delicious, lunch of shawarma and felafel. The Cathedral is spectacular, of course, but my favorite was there giant music scores on a huge stand to be visible to the whole choir (if I understood it correctly). Terrific evening walking your of the Albayzin and Sacromonte neighborhoods of Granada, learning more about the history and culture, visiting the lovely gardens of a mosque, seeing a very different kind of church and even getting to see the inside of a cave house. Yummy dinner, too --Moroccan this time, so we shared a chicken and apricot tagine.

What a day! Spent most of the day at Al Hambra. Spectacular, as everyone knows, and interesting history. We pretty much saw the whole thing from the fortress to the palaces to the gorgeous gardens. One wonderful thing: they still produce a lot of food from farming within the walls of the Al Hambra, and donate it to good banks to feed the poor. Barely time for a short nap before a yummy dinner (seafood paella). Then a flamenco show called La Zambra de María La Canastera. Yes for tourists, but really good. The venue is one of the oldest flamenco cave venues in Granada, so it's small and you can really see what they're doing. Our only regret is not understanding more about flamenco in general or what the songs were about.

Travel day spent on the train, so not much to say about that. Nice countryside that looks a lot like California. However, our hotel is formed by two small Mudejar buildings built in the first third of the sixteenth century. Very cool, though the room presents a few challenges. Photo shows part of the lobby (originally a courtyard of one of the houses). Delicious dinner of salmon in some kind of orange sauce. 

Went to the Festa de Poblenou and got you see giants in the parade plus castellos (a Catalan tradition of building human towers). And music of course--gralla, a double reed instrument and timbal, a drum. So lucky to get to see this! Plus a visit to Gaudí's Casa Milá. And tapas for dinner.

Started with a museum of the giant puppets that get carried in parades. Amazing figures. Hope to see some in action tomorrow. The kind woman at the desk did some major research for us on where we could see the giants in a parade, and a human tower and see the sardana. This isn't easy to find out you find speak Catalan and know what to look for. It took some doing, but she figured it out. As a result, we went out to a neighborhood festival today that turned out to have a couple of bands and a whole bunch of clubs that were eager to dance. Yummy dinner at Los Caracoles, a restaurant founded in 1835. The cooking is all done on wood stoves. We had a Catalan style roast chicken--not so exotic, but really good. We had to walk through the kitchen to get to our table!

What a day? Got off the ship and successfully to our hotel. Visited a market, ate tapas for lunch, bought Henry a new pair of sandals since the soles split on the ones he was using and then the highlight of the day: a: visit to the Sagrada Familia. What a strange and wonderful place! We had a guided tour, which really helped focus on particular aspects of it and not just be overwhelmed.

Ship arrived at noon, and though we still have one more night one the ship, our Barcelona exploration started today with a stroll down Las Ramblas followed by a walking tour. Great introduction to the old quarter of there city. The photo in the building is the Palace of Catalan Music and the mosaic in the middle of Las Ramblas was done by Miró. We haven't even gotten to Gaudí or Picasso...

Rainy day, but not enough to interfere and nice to have cooler temperatures. Wandered around, enjoying the city and the harbor area. Visited a big grocery store--always interesting--and particularly liked there little robot cleaning there floors. Finished with a visit to the National Maritime Museum, which was excellent if you like ship models, which I do. These were incredibly detailed, and showed the process of building the ships, and also the changes over time (adding metal sheeting, then motors, etc.). We tagged along on a tour for a bunch  of naval people who clearly didn't mind us interlopers. Turns out they're all veterinarians, from different countries/ships. They take care off everything from service dogs on board to rat problems.

Spent the day roaming around Nice. Old town, market (photo is of a gazillion different kinds of salt--each had s recommendation for best use) promenade along the coast and even a visit to the cemetery where Matisse is buried (supposedly--we never managed to find his tomb) and Mercedes, as in the cars (we did see his tomb). Nice is beautiful, and is much more than a playground for the rich. Also got a chance to walk around the lovely but very steep Villefranche-sur-mer before heading back the ship.

The port is Livorno, but we took the train and spent the day in Lucca. Lovely day walking the walls and around the old town. Lunch was cecina (a kind of chickpea crepe) and pizza. Yum.

Spent the day wandering around Civitaveccia, quite a nice town with medieval walls and modern street art. It's Sunday so I'm little open and very uncrowded (most people go to Rome on this pretty stop, but we opted for a more relaxed day.)  Lovely lunch at a small restaurant--had to try the pasta with pickleweed (salicornia). We first tasted pickleweed at the salt marsh at Baylands in Alviso. Fun (and yummy) to try it in an actual dish though I'd put more pickleweed.

Started with an interesting walking tour of Royal Naples and the old town. Then delicious traditional pizzas cooked in a wood burning oven (Margarheta and Marinara). Wandered through the old Spanish quarter and then found (of course) some yummy gelato before heading back too the ship.

Passing through the Messina straight today on our way to Naples. And, unexpected treat--sailed around Stromboli, an active volcano. We could see smoke coming out of some of the vents, but otherwise looked very peaceful. 600 people live permanently on there island, in two small villages.

Took the train to the ancient ruins of Olympia, where they Olympic games started. Something magic about being there, and then seeing the amazing statues, griffins, etc. that were found there over the years (in the museum, of course). Yummy lunch: chickpeas and spinach in a lemon sauce, anchovies (also in a lemon sauce) and yet another kind of little cheese pie. Back to the ship, and once again comfortably ensconced on deck chairs to watch the beautiful scenery as we sail away and say αντιο σας to Greece (for this time).

Decided to wander around in town where we readily found the ruins of a 5th century synogogue (with a basilica built one top) and two small museums. Also saw a chilling bunker left from the Balkan war in the 1990's (I think--scary recent in any case). Produce market with usual veggies plus olive oil bottled in old soft drink plastic bottles, dried figs on strings and a sort of fig paste (maybe made with honey and walnuts?). We didn't have bathing suits with us, but did grab them opportunity to stick our feet in the lovely water. Then back to the ship for late lunch and lazy afternoon ensconced on a deck chair overlooking the city and the hills.

Wandered around a bit on our own, then met our very interesting walking tour of the old town. Then late lunch of "brodet", a Croatian seafood stew, and grilled calamari. Then waddled to the bus and back to the ship.